Solo information to Hualien East Rift Valley 花東縱谷: Guangfu, Ruisui, Yuli

Taiwan’s east coast with its beautiful mountain ranges is understood to be extra of a driving vacation spot, however for those who’re prepared to decelerate just a little to discover this extra rural countryside area, you’ll discover that alongside some attractive mountain surroundings, Hualien has some beautiful small cities price testing. I visited 3 small cities in Hualien by prepare by myself: Guangfu, Ruisui and Yuli, and compiled this spotlight submit of issues to do in Hualien’s East Rift Valley.

Most individuals solely consider Taroko Gorge once they consider Hualien, and whereas it’s an incredible sight, Hualien truly has many different little spots which are price testing as effectively. If you’re trying to escape the vacationer crowds, these small cities within the East Rift Valley supply a quieter various with out the congestion and a few perception into native Taiwanese tradition.

I’ve spent a whole lot of time in recent times exploring Taiwan as it’s one among my favorite international locations, however realised that the final time I visited Hualien was truly method, method again in 2007 as a younger recent grad traipsing across the nation with my pals. This journey to Hualien 15 years later was a very long time coming!

The place is Taiwan’s East Rift Valley positioned?

Taiwan has no lack of lovely mountains, and one among its jewels is in Hualien generally known as the East Rift Valley or Huadong Valley 花東縱谷. This stretch of valley is bracketed by the Central Mountain Vary and the Coastal Mountain Vary between Hualien and Taitung alongside Taiwan’s East Coast which is the way it obtained its identify – Hua for Hualien, Dong for Taitung.

This valley is house to a lot of Taiwan’s agriculture and the farms and villages which have sprung up round it. Many aboriginal tribes additionally settled within the valley so that you’ll see indicators of that within the names of locations, meals and tradition within the space. And naturally you’ll have lovely mountain views nearly wherever you flip.

In the event you’re taken with Hualien’s coastal points of interest as an alternative, try a few of the sights you may see in Fengbin on a day journey with the Hualien East Coast Shuttle Bus.

Learn how to get across the East Rift Valley

By driving

The primary highway that cuts by Hualien’s East Rift Valley is Freeway 9 which is the place most of those cities are positioned. Most guests within the Hualien space self-drive or have a automotive association to discover because the sights are fairly unfold out. Since I used to be by myself and never driving, I might search for a bicycle/scooter rental close to the prepare station as I exited after which discover the city space from there.

If you wish to see extra of Hualien’s Coast, Freeway 11 runs parallel to this highway on the opposite aspect of the Coastal Mountain Vary. I’ll speak about Hualien’s coastal sights in one other submit coming quickly. There are some small roads that lower throughout the Coastal Mountain Vary and join the 2 highways, however typically it’s simpler to spend your day doing both the Valley route or the Coastal route and never cross between them.

By prepare

The East Rift Valley is served by TRA trains. In the event you’re coming from Taipei, the Puyuma Specific Prepare from Taipei to Hualien Metropolis takes about 2 hours. The slower TRA trains take wherever from 3-4 hours as they make extra stops alongside the way in which. 

You should purchase prepare tickets immediately on the station counter or make reservations on-line. I recommend making reservations on-line for those who’re trying to journey on weekends/peak durations because the Puyuma Specific trains can promote out throughout these instances – you may nonetheless get on the prepare however you’ll be caught standing all the way in which or seat hopping for those who don’t have a reserved seat.

In the event you’re simply hopping between cities, I discover it simpler to only flip up on the station and purchase a ticket on the counter shortly and simply. You’ll be able to pay with money or bank card.

Whether or not you intend to drive or take the prepare, I all the time suggest shopping for journey insurance coverage earlier than you go as a safeguard towards sudden occasions like journey delays and accidents brought on by accidents. You’ll be able to try Earnings’s Journey Insurance coverage to be taught extra.

Guangfu 光復

Guangfu was as soon as filled with sugarcane plantations and a middle for sugar manufacturing again within the day.

From Hualien Station to Guangfu Station by prepare:

• Puyuma Specific: 30-40 minutes 
• Native Trains: 40 -60 minutes

Hualien Tourism Sugar Manufacturing unit 花蓮觀光糖廠

Since sugar was the primary business in Guangfu, one of many primary points of interest at present is the Hualien Tourism Sugar Manufacturing unit, also called the Guangfu Sugar Manufacturing unit. Formally arrange again in 1913, they produced sugar by the Japanese colonial instances and World Warfare II up till the early 2000s when the manufacturing facility was closed. It has since been restored right into a vacationer attraction by the Taisugar firm 台糖.

The manufacturing facility occupies fairly a big compound however the primary exercise is centred round this pond which is surrounded by retailers promoting meals and souvenirs, together with one of many star merchandise of the realm: ice cream! This ice cream store has over 20 completely different flavours out there.

A warning for those who plan to take a seat down on this space and eat: there are xiaoheiwen on this explicit space – that’s Taiwan’s model of the sandfly which is able to depart you itching for days – so I recommend masking up for those who’re particularly delicate like I’m!

There’s a bike rental store on website as effectively if you wish to discover the realm which is what I did. The meals choices additionally make this a fairly widespread stopover for cyclists who’re passing by the realm and want a break. I rented a motorcycle and spent a morning exploring a few of the close by sights which I’ll speak extra about under.

One other factor you are able to do on the Guangfu Tourism Sugar Manufacturing unit is keep in a single day within the Japanese type picket homes that litter the compound. Initially constructed to deal with larger rating executives who labored on the manufacturing facility through the Japanese colonial period, these homes have since been transformed into guesthouses. 

Together with the quaint picket structure, options just like the cypress wooden floors, tatami mat rooms and even the Japanese-style stone baths have been stored alongside trendy options like air-conditioning, automated bathroom bowls and netted screens on the home windows to maintain bugs out.

Staying in one among these homes is sort of enjoyable however they’re meant for two or extra individuals – I visited on a media journey and so they assigned us every a lodge and it felt far too huge for simply 1 individual to sleep in, however the household lodge could be very best for a small group/household.

Company on the Hualien Sugar Manufacturing unit Lodge additionally get vouchers for lots of the actions on website like driving the standard prepare (closed on the day I used to be there), bicycle rental and ice cream.

Various inns in Guangfu to contemplate:

• Maple Feeling Trip Farm [affiliate link] – the situation is just a little bit farther from the city however the rooms look actually huge
• Kamiyamato B&B [affiliate link] – is an reasonably priced choice just a little nearer to the city centre

Matai’an Wetlands 馬太鞍溼地生態園區

Do you know that Matai’an is definitely one of many previous names for the Guangfu space? It comes from the Ami phrase ‘Vataan’ or pigeon pea 樹豆 – the Amis are the aboriginal tribe who name this space house. 

The Matai’an Wetlands lie on the west aspect of the Guangfu River and is a beautiful place to get pleasure from nature and perform a little birdwatching. This space is especially widespread in summer time from round Might to August when its ponds are lined in blooming water lilies and lotuses. Clearly I used to be there in February so I didn’t see any of that, but it surely was very inexperienced and peaceable and there are good little roads and boardwalks that are excellent for a stroll or cycle.

Whether or not you’re biking, climbing or participating in any adventurous actions, it’s all the time good to have Earnings’s Journey Insurance coverage offer you further safety.

I used to be there at a bizarre timing, however for those who go round lunch time, one factor it’s best to strive on this space is conventional Ami delicacies. They’re recognized for his or her distinctive stone sizzling pot 石頭火鍋 – try Yoti Life for some pix of meals that features grilled fish, wild boar meat and the native veggies. 

Some eating places within the space you may try embody Cifadahan Conventional Amis Restaurant 紅瓦屋老地方文化美食餐廳 or Shin Liu Farm 欣綠農園 that are all inside the Matai’an Wetlands space.

Danongdafu Forest Park 大農大富平地森林園區

From Guangfu Sugar Manufacturing unit, one other place I cycled to discover was the Danongdafu Forest Park. Forest parks primarily are secondary forests – the unique forest was cleared out due to industrialisation, however these new forests have been cultivated afterward as a inexperienced lung for the realm. This space was once sugarcane plantations that belonged to Taisugar Corp, and is called for the two farms: Danong 大農 and Dafu 大富.

Danongdafu is 1 of the three main forest parks in Taiwan (the opposite two are in Pingtung and Chiayi and is fairly huge – 1250 hectares which is about 48x the dimensions of Da’an Forest Park in Taipei! There are many biking trails resulting in and contained in the forest park – I additionally encountered individuals strolling alongside the paths.

February as you may see on the tail finish of winter is beautiful climate for outside exercise and biking, however inevitably a bit dreary due to perpetual rain and overcast skies. In spring and summer time, this space is tremendous vibrant with blooming flowers and March and April is firefly season too. Autumn is one other widespread time to return with fall colors, although I believe the naked boughs of winter are fairly cool as effectively.

There are some sculptures in elements of the park, however sadly I obtained rained out so I didn’t spend as a lot time right here as I might have favored. I positively want to return again when the flowers are in bloom to see their ‘flower sea’! There’s additionally a viewing tower which I missed as effectively.

I cycled to Danongdafu Forest Park from the Hualien Tourism Sugar Manufacturing unit. It’s a pleasant biking path passing by a lot of countryside and paddy fields. Simply preserve a watch out for the biking path indicators!

What I missed

Fuyuan Nationwide Forest Recreation Space 富源國家森林遊樂區 – it’s a 15 minute drive by automotive from Guangfu Prepare Station however virtually an hour on bicycle (You might take the prepare to Fuyuan Station which is nearer). This nationwide park has a beautiful suspension bridge and can be well-known for butterflies in spring and summer time (March to August)

Ruisui 瑞穗

Ruisui is most well-known as the one carbonate water sizzling springs in Taiwan. The water right here can be wealthy in iron which provides the water its yellowish tinge and is meant to have beautifying and therapeutic properties.

From Hualien Station to Guangfu Station by prepare:

• Puyuma Specific: 30-40 minutes 
• Native Trains: 40 -60 minutes

I first visited Ruisui as a clueless 20-something yr previous simply following my good friend round on the itinerary that she deliberate. That exact journey was made up just about on the fly – we discovered a guesthouse close to the prepare station once we arrived and the proprietor organized our actions together with going to a sizzling spring bathtub home and white water rafting.

This time round, I principally took taxi to get round. The native girl who picked me up from the prepare station gave me her identify card and each time I wanted a experience I simply gave her a name. Undoubtedly go together with an area cab – on my method again from dinner I made a decision to hop into one other taxi, however that man had fetched somebody down from Taipei and had no concept how you can get round so it took us 2x as lengthy to get again to the lodge >_<

Ruisui Scorching Springs: Yen Hotspring Lodge 元湯溫泉居

The primary level of visiting Ruisui was to completely benefit from the sizzling springs right here after a busy week on a media journey, so I made a decision to splash out on a pleasant sizzling spring lodge! Yen Hotspring Lodge is without doubt one of the newer inns in Ruisui and has a pleasant clear aesthetic vs the extra typical decor of older sizzling spring inns caught within the early 90s or so.

I used to be in a western-style room with a big King sized mattress, leather-based sofa and connected balcony – the Japanese type rooms have mattresses on a platform and there are bigger suites as effectively.

The tub may be very clear and people faucets fill the bathtub up in a short time. The lodge offers fairly detailed directions on how you can use the bathtub in addition to the truth that the water is hotter and completely different instances of the day. I stayed there for one evening and bathed 2x to make full use of this bathtub. What I favored was that the bathtub was additionally indoors (no mozzies at evening!) but additionally ventilated sufficient that the room itself doesn’t really feel steamy.

The lodge truly has a swimming pool and outside sizzling springs as effectively, although the general public are right here to benefit from the baths of their rooms, it is perhaps helpful for those who’re right here as a really giant group. The breakfast offered was additionally very stellar – very recent and distinctive native Hualien meals!

Yen Hotspring Lodge is just a little above my typical price range at 4,280 NTD/evening (about S$186), however contemplating the services it’s effectively well worth the splurge and for those who’re a pair, I believe it’s very price what you pay for. The service was wonderful as effectively, with the receptionist girl serving to me to name my taxi once I wanted it.

Various Ruisui sizzling spring inns to contemplate:

• Ruixiong Hotspring Lodge [affiliate link] – this lodge was cheaper and extra inside my typical price range, but it surely’s additionally farther from Ruisui Prepare Station in Hongye Village
• 蜜滋賀溫泉飯店 [affiliate link] – that is one other newish lodge that I used to be contemplating, however I assumed Yen was prettier
• Ruisui Sunshine Scorching Spring B&B [affiliate link] – this one was a bit on the costly aspect as effectively but it surely’s a really fairly lodge additionally positioned in Hongye Village. The hotspring bathtub is positioned on the balcony which is sweet however I fear about mozzies!

Milk Hotpot: Inexperienced Genie / Lü Jing Ling 綠精靈瑞穗鮮奶鍋

Ruisui’s pastures have made this city well-known for its dairy merchandise – the Rareseed Ranch or Ruisui Ranch 瑞穗牧場 is a fairly widespread vacationer attraction within the space, however I didn’t hassle as a result of it appears to principally be a petting zoo for cows and the place you should purchase milk merchandise.

As an alternative, I made a decision to eat one of many extra distinctive meals within the space: a hotpot that makes use of recent milk as its base at a restaurant referred to as Lü Jing Ling. It’s very near the prepare station so for those who drop by within the afternoon, you may simply stroll there. 

I used to be fairly hungry so I went down early (about 530pm?) and simply obtained a seat because it was a weekday and I used to be early. There are a number of milk hotpot choices on the menu with completely different flavours like curry, vanilla, spicy Mongolian and seafood, however I made a decision to only eat the conventional milk hotpot. They produce other non-milk hotpots and rice/noodle dishes as effectively. 

The milk style is definitely fairly gentle, and I like that the hotpot doesn’t really feel too wealthy so you may simply eat all the things.The usual milk hotpot set prices 250 NTD (~S$10) and is fairly worthwhile in my view since you get free stream rice, condiments in addition to dessert that features fruit, recent milk pudding and a pomelo tea! I used to be positively fairly stuffed after this.

There have been queues exterior once I left at about 645pm, so positively go early for those who can or make a reservation! It’s not a really giant place.

One other factor that’s widespread to eat in Ruisui that I used to be actually too full for at this level is the Matcha Meatballs. Inexperienced tea meatballs? Sure, that’s precisely what it’s. This stall is even nearer to the Ruisui Prepare Station – try Fairy Lolita for extra pix of this unusual meatball stuffed with pork and bamboo shoots.

White Water Rafting

An previous identify for Ruisui is Shuiwei, which interprets to ‘finish of the water’ as a result of this city is positioned on the finish of the Xiuguluan River which is the longest river in Taiwan at about 104km and the one one which cuts by the Central Mountain Vary! One extremely popular exercise in Ruisui throughout summer time is whitewater rafting alongside the Xiuguluan River.

Timing is essential relating to whitewater rafting in Ruisui: the height season is normally round August when the river is full and the rapids are at their strongest. Very long time in the past I attempted it out in Might which was nonetheless a tad too dry and we spent extra time getting towed by the speedboat than truly transferring – learn extra right here. February once I was there not too long ago was a tad too chilly for me to need to be within the water.

The place to begin for the rafting expertise is the place the Xiuguluan River Centre is positioned east of Ruisui Prepare Station [Google Maps]. The ending level is usually in Fengbin alongside Hualien coast the place the crimson Changhong Bridge is positioned [Google Maps]. This journey down the river takes about 3-4 hours in whole and normally begins within the morning as there’s a curfew for boats at 3pm.

Yuli 玉里

This small city close to the southern tip of Hualien County consists principally of paddy fields, however is a beautiful place to wind down and the place an vital geological marker might be discovered. August to September is a busy time as most individuals head to Chike Mountain to see the orange daylilies on the mountainside.

From Hualien Station to Yuli Station by prepare:

• Puyuma Specific: 50-60 minutes 
• Native Trains: 1-1.5hrs

Yufu Bikeway 玉富自行車道

For these taken with extra severe biking in Taiwan, the Yufu Bikeway that straddles Yuli and Fuli down south is meant to be one of many prettiest locations to cycle in Taiwan. This 10km bikeway solely for bicycles was constructed on the previous prepare tracks that hyperlink Yuli to the previous prepare stations at Antong and Dongli.

Those that’ve learn earlier blogs know that I’ve completed the lengthy biking journeys (recollections of the Shinamani Kaido) but it surely’s not my typical factor. Even that day in Yuli I used to be feeling a bit drained from biking at Guangfu the day earlier than so I completely whimped out and rented an e-bike as an alternative (300NTD vs 100NTD however was with the ability to put my ft up and transfer at >2x the velocity of a traditional bike price it? Hell sure)

Yuli itself is a pleasant quiet small city with a lot of paddy fields and small paths, excellent for some uneventful biking with out the specter of excessive visitors and delightful views. I principally caught to the primary city space, going as far north in direction of one thing referred to as Yuli Wetlands, after which southwards so far as the Kecheng bridge that seems in a whole lot of postcards.

In case you have extra time and power, you might cycle all the way down to neighbouring village Antong 安通 (about 10 minutes drive or 30 minutes by bicycle) which is a well-liked sizzling spring city. Or preserve following the Yufu Bikeway and Freeway 30 to achieve the previous Dongliyi Station 東里驛站 (it’s not removed from the present Dongli Station for those who quite take the prepare) which is now a biking relaxation cease amidst the paddy fields.

Philippine-Eurasian Plate Marker 歐亞板塊及菲律賓海板塊交界紀念碑

The primary sight to see on the Yufu Bikeway is that this explicit bridge that doesn’t simply cross the river, but additionally crosses the purpose the place the Philippine and Eurasian tectonic plates meet! It’s additionally the rationale why there’s a whole lot of tectonic exercise there and so they ultimately shifted the railway line as a result of they needed to preserve adjusting it when the plates moved.

Sadly, that part of the Yufu Bikeway was closed once I went due to the 6.8 magnitude earthquake that hit Yuli in Sep 2022 and broken numerous the city. This part of the bridge is closed, although you might use the primary highway on Yuli Bridge that runs parallel to the bikeway to hook up with the remainder of the route on the opposite aspect. 

There’s usually a marker on the bridge the place the plates are supposed to satisfy, which is the place most individuals take their proof photographs with, so I made a decision to only sit back close by and benefit from the view. The river was fairly dry with barely any water flowing, and there was a lone digger working to clear some rocks. It is perhaps awhile earlier than they reopen this bridge once more!

Yuli Noodles: Ma Gai Xian 馬蓋先美食玉里麵

One other factor that’s notably well-known right here is one thing referred to as Yuli Noodles. Due to all of the paddy fields, rice and noodles are after all staples right here and alleged to be further tasty, although I can’t work out what makes Yuli Noodles particular. Regardless, I do the vacationer factor and head to Ma Gai Xian 馬蓋先, one among a number of well-known Yuli noodle retailers within the city. 

In essence, Yuli Noodle is a bowl of springy handmade noodles which were air-dried, topped with slices of pork, lard, bean sprouts and greens. I had the dry model which had some sauce and oil, however you may have a soup model as effectively. It was a stable, tasty bowl of noodles for certain however there’s nothing notably fascinating or bizarre about it.

The place to remain in Yuli

I daytripped down from Ruisui to Yuli and headed as much as Hualien Metropolis within the night so I didn’t keep in a single day in Yuli, however the lodging right here is unquestionably cheaper in comparison with Hualien Metropolis and price consideration in case you are on a price range or simply need someplace quiet.. 

There are lockers on the prepare station with English directions to go surfing that foreigners can use, although getting them to work was truthfully not the best for me. In the event you lease bicycles close by you might ask for those who might depart your luggage there. 

Yuli guesthouses to contemplate:

Have you ever been to Hualien? What are your favorite small cities within the East Rift Valley? Inform me what I missed. In the meantime try extra of my Taiwan posts right here: